Peasant Osteria
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What began as a celebration of rustic European cooking has found a natural home in the world of Italian food, with Peasant Osteria bringing the flavours of Sicily and Calabria to Ballarat.
Set within the grounds of Mercure Ballarat, Peasant Osteria is the latest incarnation of the restaurant from restaurateur Dan Tesoriero and chef Douglas Kerr. The pair have long championed seasonal produce, thoughtful cooking and the idea that good food is ultimately about generosity and bringing people together. Their earlier iteration of Peasant was known for its European peasant-style cuisine, with an emphasis on local produce, minimal waste and humble ingredients elevated through technique.
The new Osteria chapter feels like a particularly fitting progression. The cooking now leans into Southern Italy, drawing heavily on Tesoriero’s Calabrian and Sicilian roots while retaining the restaurant’s longstanding respect for the seasons and the produce itself. The menu changes regularly, with an à la carte offering available throughout the week and a five-course Chef’s Selection on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Inside, the setting is elegant without feeling overly formal. There is an old-world warmth to the dining room, creating the sort of atmosphere that encourages diners to settle in for the evening rather than simply stop by for a quick meal. It is very much a restaurant designed around the pleasures of lingering over good food and wine.
And there is plenty to linger over.
We began with the Calamari alla Griglia, where grilled calamari was paired with cavolo nero, candied chilli, preserved lemon and oregano. It is a deceptively simple combination, but one that demonstrates the appeal of Southern Italian cooking: quality ingredients, bold yet balanced flavours and enough acidity and spice to keep everything lively. The preserved lemon brings brightness, while the candied chilli adds a subtle sweetness and gentle heat.
The Risotto was another standout. Rich crab was combined with chilli, spinach, mascarpone and lemon, resulting in a beautifully creamy dish that managed to feel indulgent without becoming too heavy. The sweetness of the crab worked particularly well with the freshness of lemon and the gentle warmth of chilli. It is also a dish that captures the current direction of Peasant particularly well, with Italian technique meeting excellent seasonal produce. The restaurant’s current menu has similarly featured a crab risotto with chilli, spinach, mascarpone and lemon.
Then came the Gnocchi, a particularly luxurious interpretation of the classic Italian comfort food. Fried potato and goat cheese gnocchi was accompanied by Brussels sprout, chestnut, beetroot and parmesan custard. There is plenty happening on the plate, but the components work together rather than competing for attention. The crispness of the fried gnocchi contrasts beautifully with the richness of the parmesan custard, while beetroot and Brussels sprout bring earthiness and the chestnut adds another layer of autumnal sweetness.
For the meat courses, the Black Angus Sirloin kept things beautifully straightforward: 300 grams of beef with charred shallot. It is the kind of dish where restraint is important, allowing the quality of the beef and the charred flavours to take centre stage. Alongside it, the Pork Belly delivered the sort of indulgence expected from a slow-cooked cut, with 250 grams of pork belly served with grilled apple and crackling. The sweet acidity of the apple provides an ideal counterpoint to the richness of the pork, while the crackling supplies the essential textural finale.
The wine list is, indeed, worth exploring. Italian wines sit naturally alongside the food, while local selections provide a reminder that this is ultimately a regional Victorian restaurant celebrating both sides of the equation. Golden Plate judges specifically highlighted the range available by the glass and recommended exploring the Italian selections.
For Ballarat, it is another welcome addition to an increasingly sophisticated dining scene. Peasant Osteria offers the chance to slow down, order a bottle of wine, share a few plates and settle into a leisurely Italian-style dinner without having to leave regional Victoria.
Location: 613 Main Rd, Golden Point in Mercure Ballarat
Phone: (03) 5327 1200
