98 Lygon St
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Step through the doors of 98 Lygon St and you could swear you’ve crossed continents. The space hums with the warmth and elegance of a European neighbourhood bistro—white tablecloths, soft lighting, a handsome timber bar, and a leafy courtyard that feels tailor-made for long lunches that roll effortlessly into the evening.
Helmed by industry veterans Ben Clark and Simon Aukett, the venue breathes new life into the former Maggie’s site. Their vision is simple yet meticulous: refined European classics, thoughtful service, and a welcoming atmosphere that encourages lingering. In the kitchen, Michelin-experienced talent elevates the menu with technique, balance and genuine joy.
The dining journey begins with a trio of snacks that set the tone.
The chorizo arrives smoky and robust, the kind of bite that pairs naturally with an early-evening spritz. Boquerones with lemon and olive oil bring a bright, seaside freshness—clean, vibrant and undeniably Mediterranean. The crudités with 98 bagnet verde offer a crisp, herb-forward contrast, proving that even the simplest plates can deliver real flavour impact when executed with precision.
Entrées showcase the kitchen’s finesse and respect for seasonal produce. The asparagus with brown butter and whipped ricotta is spring on a plate—tender spears enriched by nutty butter and cloud-like ricotta. Meanwhile, the Shallot Tarte Tatin with 98 mustard and purple mizuna might be one of the menu’s quiet triumphs: sticky, caramelised shallots layered into a golden pastry with just enough mustard heat to keep each bite exciting.
For mains, the market fish with leek beurre blanc is a standout for seafood lovers. It’s delicate yet indulgent, with the silkiness of the beurre blanc complementing the seasonal fish without overpowering its natural sweetness. The spatchcock chicken with jus and salmoriglio is equally compelling—a dish that transports you straight to southern Europe, balancing bright citrus-herb notes with comforting, slow-cooked richness.
No table is complete without sides, and here they shine. The tomatoes in shallot vinaigrette with wild garlic oil burst with freshness and acidity, cutting beautifully through the richer courses. And then there are the frites with 98 salt and aioli—crisp, golden and dangerously addictive.
98 Lygon St is more than a new restaurant—it’s a modern neighbourhood institution in the making. With its polished yet relaxed atmosphere, refined dishes, and genuine hospitality, it delivers the kind of dining experience that feels timeless.
Open seven days, from midday until late, it’s the kind of place you visit once and immediately add to your regular rotation. Whether it’s a solo martini at the bar, a lingering weekend lunch, or a celebratory dinner under the courtyard lights, this is European dining done the Melbourne way: soulful, generous and effortlessly stylish.
Location: 98 Lygon St, Brunswick East
Phone: (03) 7302 0018
