A Royal Mail Hotel Winter Experience at Rippon Lea Estate

There’s a moment, just after stepping into the chandelier-lit ballroom of Rippon Lea Estate, when the scent of truffle mingles with the richness of browned butter and the crisp hush of winter outside. It’s then you realise this isn’t just a dinner — it’s a rare and extraordinary encounter with one of Australia’s most revered regional restaurants, reimagined in the heart of Melbourne.

The Royal Mail Hotel’s exclusive winter dining series at Rippon Lea is an elegant collision of two Victorian icons: the heritage-listed 19th-century estate and the multi-award-winning restaurant from Dunkeld, nestled at the base of the Grampians. For a limited time, this historic ballroom plays host to a full-scale fine dining experience, showcasing the garden-to-plate ethos that defines Executive Chef Robin Wickens’ cuisine — no long drive required.

The evening begins with a glass of sparkling and a trio of canapés served beneath sweeping ceilings and vintage chandeliers. A mille-feuille arrives, its flavour a surprise — delicate, precise, and fleeting. A croustade of brassicas with farmhouse ricotta and a caper-raisin purée bridges the sweet-savoury divide with elegance, while a tart of fermented kohlrabi with roasted hemp seed purée is a textural triumph.

From there, things deepen — a wild mushroom consommé, clear and earthy, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke and a sweet woodruff velouté, acts as both amuse-bouche and a sensory reset. The entrée, a cylinder of cylindra beetroot paired with whipped bone marrow, delivers a complex interplay of sweet, fatty and sour notes, bolstered by pickled Silvanberries and a beetroot reduction. It’s hearty yet delicate, and unmistakably winter on a plate.

The sourdough — rich with golden linseed and stout — comes warm with a cultured brewer’s malt butter so good it could justify a course of its own. Then comes the fish course: pan-roasted blue eye with salsify and black truffle, finished with a roasted chicken jus. It’s a dish that flirts with umami while never overpowering the gentle sweetness of the fish.

The meat courses take things up a notch. Great Ocean Duck with meadowsweet custard and buttered Tasmanian swede is plush and comforting, while the BBQ beef sirloin with roasted onion purée and bordelaise sauce taps into the primal delight of expertly grilled meat — elevated, of course, by green manure sauce and charred hispi cabbage.

The finale? An acorn and quince mousse paired with spiced sponge and “rotten leaf” ice cream — playful, poetic, and just a little bit wild.

Petit fours arrive in the form of tiny jelly baby vegetables — the final nod to the estate garden, and the Royal Mail Hotel’s unwavering commitment to seasonality, sustainability, and a sense of place.

This special collaboration between Royal Mail Hotel and Showtime Event Group brings the spirit of the Grampians to Melbourne in the most enchanting way. For those who’ve long wanted to dine at Royal Mail but never quite made the trip — this is your chance. For those who have, it’s a beautiful reminder of why the journey was always worth it.

Bookings: Strictly limited availability via Eventbrite

Location: Rippon Lea Estate, 192 Hotham Street Elsternwick, VIC 3185